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Thread: Tuning help

  1. #1
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    Default Tuning help

    It was recommended for me to tune my arrow flight[tail left impact] by adjusting the cable. I had to twist the right yoke 8 twists to get the idler anywhere near straight at full draw. If i'm twisting the cable should I untwist the string? ata is 1/4 short now bh is on the mark

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    String builder/ Moderator Hutch~n~Son Archery's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rpalt1 View Post
    It was recommended for me to tune my arrow flight[tail left impact] by adjusting the cable. I had to twist the right yoke 8 twists to get the idler anywhere near straight at full draw. If i'm twisting the cable should I untwist the string? ata is 1/4 short now bh is on the mark
    I am afraid you had some miss info or not explained well enough. You should have the ATA right on specs. Then twist the cable yoke to even out the limb twist. And untwist or twist the string to get the right dl. The rest is too far to the right if you get tail left impact.

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    Senior Member Ehunter's Avatar
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    What Hutch said. Tail left or right is usually a rest or clearance problem.
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    I thought so! should have gone with my instincts. to me if i twist the yoke far enough to get limb twist out christ i'll be twisting forever lol the short ata only 30" has some effect on the idler and limbs at rest. I'm assuming[lol] it's more important that the idler and cam are straight at full draw, right? wrong? whats confusing is I twisted the yoke 8 times to pull out idler lean but thats all i did and then my ata was shorter, obviously, so I should just untwist the other end of the cable to get ata back correct? this should leave the yoke the same right? god am i old lol
    Last edited by rpalt1; 03-15-2011 at 07:11 PM.

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    I had a little tail kick to the left and moved my rest less than an 1/8 to the right and it took it right out.
    2010 Bengal,63#, 28dl, Easton ST Excels 400s @ 27.5", GT 5575s @ 27.5", or Beman 400s @ 27.5, ST 100 Magnums/Grim Reapers, older WB, Bonecollector 1100 Sights, LimbSaver "S" coil stabilizer, Grayling four arrow quiver, nocturnal nocks, Hutch-n-Sons cable/strings

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    Senior Member CaptJJ's Avatar
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    I recommended to adjust the yoke first rather than compensate by adjusting the rest. I said I do it by shooting the bow and it works, but it's a bit more advanced(uses a bare shaft) and I intentionally left out the details. It's all about making the fletching have to do as little correcting of arrow flight as possible, like all tuning methods. You can do what you want. Sorry for the confusion.
    Recurves: 40lb X-200, 45 & 50lb Hunters, 45lb Mamba

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    not your fault capt. didnt mean for it to sound that way I used to know all this stuff but its been along time since doing it i'm just letting it overwhelm me instead of keeping it simple I definately appreciate the help

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    Senior Member CaptJJ's Avatar
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    Didn't take it that way, it certainly doesn't help that the forum is in limbo and you can't look back right now.
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    Senior Member Ehunter's Avatar
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    I'd check the ATA on BOTH sides of the bow. That'll tell you if one side is longer, and if a yoke needs twisted. A shorter ATA is going to naturally mean more cam lean. Full draw is when you want it straight. Once everything is straight and even again, and ATA is right, then I'd check cam straightness at full draw. If it is, shoot and enjoy. If not, then you can tweak it a bit with more yoke twists.
    2006 Rytera Bullet X 60#---2008 Moab 70#
    2008/12 Firecat 60#--- 2010 Warthog 70#
    2009 Warthog 70#---2009-10-12? Warthog Frankenbow with Nitrous C
    2010 Strother SR-71 65# & 2012 Strother Rush 65#
    2012 Strother SX Rush 60# & 2011 Strother Infinity 70#
    BSD strings and cables

    Yeah, I know I'm grumpy and opinionated.

  10. #10
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    Thks raining today but 60degrees tomorrow yeah! so I'll shoot some and see. Is 1/4" a significant reductiion in ata?

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