Yeah and some day I might need that room so I can have a Super Shooter!
Ray from Auburn
2011 Mathews Z7 w/QAD
2011 Bear Strike Blackout w/QAD
2011 Bowtech Assassin w/QAD
2010 Elite Z28 w/QAD
Carbon Express Maximas
100gr Tru-fire switchblades
100gr Cabelas CopperHeads
imho you should do what i do. i've got two friends who have arrow saws...i get new arrows i just go visit
those carbon arrows are too darn expensive for me to mess up on 'em. guess i'm just a chicken at heart...bak bak bak...
Not to hijack this thread, but how important is it REALLY to have a perfectly square end? Regardless of whether it's an insert, outsert, or nock, It's going to fit inside, or over the arrow. Logic would say that even if it wasn't a perfectly square cut, the part in question (insert, nock, etc.) is only going to seat down until it makes contact with the shaft. The main point of contact is either inside, or outside the arrow, not on the very end of the arrow. I do square my arrows, but reading this thread made me do some thinking and questioning. lol
2006 Rytera Bullet X 60#---2008 Moab 70#
2008/12 Firecat 60#--- 2010 Warthog 70#
2009 Warthog 70#
2010 Strother SR-71 65# & 2012 Strother Rush 65#
2012 Strother SX Rush 60# & 2011 Strother Infinity 70#
BSD strings and cables
Yeah, I know I'm grumpy and opinionated.
Untill you shoot it and/or hit the target, then all the force of the nock or insert is directed only to that one small point of contact on the angled end of your shaft...
I'm a Lefty
2011 Martin Ridge Hunter
2012 Rytera Alien Z
I square all the ends on my arrows for this reason to keep perfect flight. Once you have shot an arrow, the impact can warp the insert if it is not resting on a square end of an arrow. I believe Spiker said the same. Those aluminum inserts don't take too much to bend.
If you haven't seen a broad head wobble then you are in for a treat if you don't square your arrow ends.
I cut some arrows and they came out really nice. The best part is I had everything on hand and didn't have to buy or make anything.
I wrapped the arrows with masking tape at the cut. It probably wasn't needed but it was easier to see the cut mark on the tape than on a carbon arrow. I set up some machinest "V-Blocks" close to a solid stop (the side of my grill in this case) and has my wife spin the arrows as I chopped them with a cut-off wheel in my dremel tool.
Spinning the arrows in the v-blocks while cutting kept things pretty square. Then I used a Lumenock Fletched Arrow Squaring Tool to ensure the both ends were perfectly square. It was very easy all in all. Although it's not as fast as an arrow saw or chop saw it's just as effective.
Last edited by MLN1963; 04-08-2011 at 12:56 PM.