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Thread: martin cheetah click tink problem on full draw

  1. #11
    Senior Member HawgEnvy's Avatar
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    welcome to the forum,cronk49. Stick around for awhile. Knowledge on tap!
    '14 ChillR 28.5"/74# Extreme Recon sight,Schaffer Opposition rest,LS modular stab, Beman ICS Hunter 340

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    Welcome to the Martin Tech Forum cronk49!!

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    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    It could be several things being that it's in the area of the limb bolt. The best way to tackle the problem is to disassemble the bow and clean and grease everything. If it's done at a shop then the same applies. Back out the limb bolts or use a press enough to remove the string and the pressure from the limbs. Remove the limb bolt and bezel (that thick countersunk washer between the limb and limb bolt). Remove the Roto Cup. Clean all mating surfaces with alcohol and apply white lithium grease to them. Don't forget a dab on those little flat buttons between the Roto-cup and limbs. Apply a little on the flat side of the bezel where it sits on the limb. Apply a little to the countersunk portion of the head of the limb bolt and to the threads.

    While you're this far you may as well do both ends of the riser. Before putting the limbs and limb bolts back on make sure the Roto-cup can be rotated freely in the riser. It should not stick.

    Something I do when I get a new bow is tear it completely apart. Axles, cams, e-clips. Limbs, rockers (Roto-cups), limb bolts, barrel nuts, everything. Then I throw it on a pile in the middle of the floor. I use a dial caliper and micrometer to check everything I can and then put it all back together, applying grease to any and all mating surfaces. Set the string and cables to spec, measure the draw length and draw weight. People often ask me why I do this as they deem it to be done at the factory. Well, now maybe you are experiencing why I do it. Maybe it's overkill and maybe not, but once done by me then I know it's done right. It's also a great way to just plain learn how to work on a bow. Learn by doing.
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  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by bfisher View Post
    It could be several things being that it's in the area of the limb bolt. The best way to tackle the problem is to disassemble the bow and clean and grease everything. If it's done at a shop then the same applies. Back out the limb bolts or use a press enough to remove the string and the pressure from the limbs. Remove the limb bolt and bezel (that thick countersunk washer between the limb and limb bolt). Remove the Roto Cup. Clean all mating surfaces with alcohol and apply white lithium grease to them. Don't forget a dab on those little flat buttons between the Roto-cup and limbs. Apply a little on the flat side of the bezel where it sits on the limb. Apply a little to the countersunk portion of the head of the limb bolt and to the threads.

    While you're this far you may as well do both ends of the riser. Before putting the limbs and limb bolts back on make sure the Roto-cup can be rotated freely in the riser. It should not stick.

    Something I do when I get a new bow is tear it completely apart. Axles, cams, e-clips. Limbs, rockers (Roto-cups), limb bolts, barrel nuts, everything. Then I throw it on a pile in the middle of the floor. I use a dial caliper and micrometer to check everything I can and then put it all back together, applying grease to any and all mating surfaces. Set the string and cables to spec, measure the draw length and draw weight. People often ask me why I do this as they deem it to be done at the factory. Well, now maybe you are experiencing why I do it. Maybe it's overkill and maybe not, but once done by me then I know it's done right. It's also a great way to just plain learn how to work on a bow. Learn by doing.
    Wise actions Baz, time consuming, but can end up saving time in the long run.

  5. #15
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    Default 2009 cheetah

    bfisher
    thanks for your input. i'm pretty sure that its in the limb bolt. had someone else listen to the bow on full draw and they said the noise was coming from that area. i don't have a bow press or the knowledge that most of you have. just got into bowhunting in 2009 so my knowledge is a little on the weak side. lol. on the other hand i do like tinkerin with my toys, guns bows and fishing gear until i think it is spot on. guess that's the AR side of me, but reading the info u guys give bewilders me. so much knowledge and so little time. again thanks for the info. it really has helped me. now off to the pro shop for repairs.
    thanks ross

  6. #16
    Senior Member elkslayer4x5's Avatar
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    It's not all that difficult to do as Barry suggested, and there is no better way to learn how to work on a bow than to jump in and do it. They're simple machines, and Martins are easier than most others because you don't need a bow press to take the string off. When I got my first Martin, I lived 2 hours away from the nearest pro shop, made that trip once, and found this board after that trip, been here ever since, and have learned tons.
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  7. #17
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    I had the same noise on my onza3 it was the limb bolt. Then you can roll the string off and undo the cable. Do this on a table with a helper is useful. then back the bolt out, put some grease on it and reassemble. No more noise. As others have said it is a great way to learn about your bow.
    Cheers,
    Craig

  8. #18
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    Woops second sentence disappeared.
    Should say undo the limb bolt until you can see through the barrel nut, ie leave it screwed into the barrel nut but only in one side.

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