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Thread: Pantera spongy back wall

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    Default Pantera spongy back wall

    Just started setting up my Pantera (new, 2010 model) yesterday. Found a couple dismaying things:

    1) Can't completely tear down without a press any longer. Liked that feature on my Bengal. So now I have to get a press. Called Joel about it and he said there's more pre-load on the Pantera.

    2) The back wall is real spongy. Only one way to fix it and it's not the best solution.
    I put in the #6 DL mod and on my drawboard, it measures to 31.25". BUT when I actually draw it, from 30.375" to 31.25" is real spongy. Almost a full inch of sponge. So I have to set my draw stop at 30.375" to eliminate it and have a good firm backwall.

    Technically the bow allows me to shoot a 31" DL, but only IF I want to put up with sponginess. The Bengal wasn't that way. It had the M2-Pro cam and not one bit of sponginess all the way back to 31+.

    Same thing happened with the #5 mod. I had it in and there was almost a full inch of sponge with that one also.

    The Pantera has the AccuTrak cam and I'm thinking it's something about that cam that's doing it. Has anyone here had that problem? Is there any solution other than what I've done?

    Per my other post re: cam rotation, ATA and brace height are correct.

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    Sounds like something is off, I setup a Pantera last year for a guy who was a 31" DL and the wall on that bow wasn't the least but spongy. It's possible that you may need to either take some twists out of the string or put some in the cable or maybe a little of both so you get some more rotation on the cam and can set the stop before the cable runs out of track on the mod. The #6 mod should give you a solid wall at 31.25".

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    Quote Originally Posted by archerx7 View Post
    Sounds like something is off, I setup a Pantera last year for a guy who was a 31" DL and the wall on that bow wasn't the least but spongy. It's possible that you may need to either take some twists out of the string or put some in the cable or maybe a little of both so you get some more rotation on the cam and can set the stop before the cable runs out of track on the mod. The #6 mod should give you a solid wall at 31.25".
    So are the factory ATA and brace height specs only a general mark to shoot for? I imagine they'll go off, maybe by quite a bit if I do that. I don't have a problem doing it, the cam looked way under-rotated to me anyhow. I just want to make sure it won't cause any kind of problem.

    Second question:
    I don't have a real clear idea on the relationship between twisting/untwisting the string and doing the same thing on the cable.

    Twisting the string = ??
    Untwisting the string = ??

    Twisting the cable = ??
    Untwisting the cable = ??

    How do you know when to do which?
    How do you know when to do both?

    Sorry for the greenhorn question, I've learned a lot since I started but that's one thing that's still stumping me.

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    Quote Originally Posted by hunt123 View Post
    So are the factory ATA and brace height specs only a general mark to shoot for? I imagine they'll go off, maybe by quite a bit if I do that. I don't have a problem doing it, the cam looked way under-rotated to me anyhow. I just want to make sure it won't cause any kind of problem.

    Second question:
    I don't have a real clear idea on the relationship between twisting/untwisting the string and doing the same thing on the cable.

    Twisting the string = ??
    Untwisting the string = ??

    Twisting the cable = ??
    Untwisting the cable = ??

    How do you know when to do which?
    How do you know when to do both?

    Sorry for the greenhorn question, I've learned a lot since I started but that's one thing that's still stumping me.
    The brace and A2A specs are appox. only, they are not exact and can be adjusted somewhat.

    I would start by taking about 6-8 twists out of the string and put about 2-3 twists in the cable, and see what that gives for a draw length change and go from there.

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    I have a 2010 Pantera and I can take the string off after backing the limb bolts out until their ends are half-way through the barrel nut. Am I doing something I shouldn't be?

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    Quote Originally Posted by daveinohio View Post
    I have a 2010 Pantera and I can take the string off after backing the limb bolts out until their ends are half-way through the barrel nut. Am I doing something I shouldn't be?
    No - other than taking your string off when you could be out shooting arrows.

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    Quote Originally Posted by daveinohio View Post
    I have a 2010 Pantera and I can take the string off after backing the limb bolts out until their ends are half-way through the barrel nut. Am I doing something I shouldn't be?
    After talking to Joel, that's what I tried too. The string wouldn't begin to come off. Maybe I have a "special" bow somehow, don't know.

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    Quote Originally Posted by hunt123 View Post
    After talking to Joel, that's what I tried too. The string wouldn't begin to come off. Maybe I have a "special" bow somehow, don't know.
    try gently pulling the string away from the idler while turning the idler towards the bottow cam.
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    Do you have a good hardware store or Fastenal anywhere nearby? You could try getting a pair of longer limb bolts. Maybe 1/4" or 1/2" longer would be enough to back them out farther for disassembly.

    Wish you could post some pics of the cam at full draw; especially the module side. I'm having a hard time visualizing why the back wall would be spongy unless you're drawing the bow past the end of the module, which would indicate that the draw stop is set too long for the mod.

    I know specs and such are just approximate, but the Pantera shows to max out at a 31" draw and that would be with the f7 module. Just a guess at this point but I'll bet if you have the draw stop set for 31.25" and put on the f7 module you're going to see a much better wall than what you now have. Just the fact that you can set the draw stop at 30" with the f6 mod leades me to believe you need to put on the f7 mod and maybe readjust the stop for it.

    I know when I had my 2009 Moab and the draw stop was set too long for the module it had a spongy wall. I like to use the term "an ugly wall".

    Now here's another question I haven't seen mentioned. Just what draw length do you intend to set the bow for? Between the sponginess and limb bolt problem I'm almost incllined to think there are several things out of whack with the bow, which should all be adjustable. I just think that maybe getting at least the a2a and brace height correct would give us a good starting point. Then work on cam orientation and proper mod/draw stop position.
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    Quote Originally Posted by HawgEnvy View Post
    try gently pulling the string away from the idler while turning the idler towards the bottow cam.
    The string felt "guitar string tight" so I don't think I could have done that. Too tight to put a peep in.

    Quote Originally Posted by bfisher View Post
    Do you have a good hardware store or Fastenal anywhere nearby? You could try getting a pair of longer limb bolts. Maybe 1/4" or 1/2" longer would be enough to back them out farther for disassembly.

    Wish you could post some pics of the cam at full draw; especially the module side. I'm having a hard time visualizing why the back wall would be spongy unless you're drawing the bow past the end of the module, which would indicate that the draw stop is set too long for the mod.

    I know specs and such are just approximate, but the Pantera shows to max out at a 31" draw and that would be with the f7 module. Just a guess at this point but I'll bet if you have the draw stop set for 31.25" and put on the f7 module you're going to see a much better wall than what you now have. Just the fact that you can set the draw stop at 30" with the f6 mod leades me to believe you need to put on the f7 mod and maybe readjust the stop for it.

    I know when I had my 2009 Moab and the draw stop was set too long for the module it had a spongy wall. I like to use the term "an ugly wall".

    Now here's another question I haven't seen mentioned. Just what draw length do you intend to set the bow for? Between the sponginess and limb bolt problem I'm almost incllined to think there are several things out of whack with the bow, which should all be adjustable. I just think that maybe getting at least the a2a and brace height correct would give us a good starting point. Then work on cam orientation and proper mod/draw stop position.
    You can replace those bolts? I thought they were some special bow thing. Does the bolt come out of the round plastic cap? Any idea of the thread pitch and the bolt dia? If I can get longer ones, I'll have to take them and the bow to a local shop that has a press so they can let it clear down and put the new bolts in. Very puzzling though, that some Pantera's can be disassembled and mine can't. Joel kind of let on that it might be a problem anyhow.

    ATA and brace are factory spec (or close) right now.

    In terms of draw length, if I'm shooting my thumb release I'd probably set it for 30.5". If I switch to a back tension, I have to increase it by 1/2" to 31" to compensate for the shorter head. That keeps my anchor at the same point.

    There's a #7 module? Mine only go up to #6. That could be the problem. Good sleuthing. Thank you.

    Oh...just this second realized I might have had a #7 on my Bengal and when I sent the bow back for replacement, they didn't send the module back. That would be why the Bengal's DL and wall felt better. I'll call them and see if they'll send me one. They sent the Pantera to me with a #5 and that's it. I just happened to have the others.

    Sounds like that's going to solve the spongy back wall.

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