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Thread: Pantera spongy back wall

  1. #11
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    I used the shaft of a philips screwdriver between the string and cam to lift the string out of the groove and reversed the process to put it back on.

  2. #12
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    I called Joel again and he's going to send me a full set of modules including #7 AND he's going to try to find a couple longer limb bolts. Thanks guys for the help!!!

    Here's a few bow specs that seem strange to me, maybe they're OK for Panteras??
    1) Tiller
    Measuring from limb pocket to string - Top: 10", Bottom 10 1/4" Off by 1/4"
    Measuring from a string stretched axle to axle to compensate for the larger bottom cam - Top: 8 3/8" Bottom: 8 3/4". Off by 3/8".
    Before measuring, I tightened the limb bolts all the way down, then backed each one out the same number of turns to 60# which is where I'm shooting right now.

    Tiller isn't close to being the same especially using the string on axle measurement. That one should be the closest.

    2) Nock Height
    Limbdriver rest is adjusted to center the arrow in the Berger holes. Nock is 7/16" above 90 degrees. Anything less than that produced vertical paper tears. At 7/16", it's shooting bullet holes. That's almost 1/2" above!!

    Seems way too high to me, based on comments many others have made about their nock points.

    Thoughts? Maybe these specs are OK? ATA and brace are factory spec. I measured them again.

    Maybe the tiller being so screwed up causes the nock point to have to be that high? I tried making the tiller measurements be even but gave up because I couldn't figure out which way to turn which limb bolt to either reduce or increase the measurement.

    So I cranked the bolts all the way down to start fresh.

    It's shooting bullets on the paper rack so maybe I just forget about the weird specs and have fun??

  3. #13
    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    Yes, those washers under the limb bolts are called bezels. They should be machined aluminum with a nylon or plastic washer between the limb and the bezel. Martin has them under part # BP-7 and come in 2", 2 1/4", or 2 1/2". You have to specify the length you want. Just measure the ones in your bow and go up from that.

    I just did some disassembly of one of my bows to measure the bolts. They are
    5/16"x18 (coarse thread). The ones on my Nemisis are 2" and 2 1/14" on my 2005ShadowCat. They are listed in Fastenal catalog as Flat Head Socket Cap Screws and length goes all the way to 4". Here's some part numbers.

    .......Plain.................Holo Krome..............Zinc

    2 1/4".......24261..........81261.................9426 1
    2 1/2".......24262..........81262.................9426 2
    2 3/4".......24263...................................9 4263


    Had to edit. Didn't see your last post, hunt. Still, this might be useful to somebody else.
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  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by bfisher View Post
    Yes, those washers under the limb bolts are called bezels. They should be machined aluminum with a nylon or plastic washer between the limb and the bezel. Martin has them under part # BP-7 and come in 2", 2 1/4", or 2 1/2". You have to specify the length you want. Just measure the ones in your bow and go up from that.

    I just did some disassembly of one of my bows to measure the bolts. They are
    5/16"x18 (coarse thread). The ones on my Nemisis are 2" and 2 1/14" on my 2005ShadowCat. They are listed in Fastenal catalog as Flat Head Socket Cap Screws and length goes all the way to 4". Here's some part numbers.

    .......Plain.................Holo Krome..............Zinc

    2 1/4".......24261..........81261.................9426 1
    2 1/2".......24262..........81262.................9426 2
    2 3/4".......24263...................................9 4263


    Had to edit. Didn't see your last post, hunt. Still, this might be useful to somebody else.
    Thank you! Very valuable info if Joel doesn't happen to send a couple longer ones. We have several Fastenal stores here and some real hardware stores. I measured my bolts and they're only 2". The pocket will allow at least 2 1/4" or maybe 2 1/2". Either of those should work.

    BTW, did you just become Administrator recently? Seems like I remember you being a "senior member" not long ago. Congratulations!

  5. #15
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    On my FC400 I can draw back and hit the draw stop and feel a pronounced stop. However, if you continue to add pressure you will get a mushy feeling because although the bottom cam is stopped the top cam will continue to rotate some. Some brands have draw stops on both cams and I can see it having some benefit.

    I know you have an idler on top and not a cam but could it act the same way? Maybe this be what you are feeling on your Pantera?
    Firecat 400

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by MLN1963 View Post
    On my FC400 I can draw back and hit the draw stop and feel a pronounced stop. However, if you continue to add pressure you will get a mushy feeling because although the bottom cam is stopped the top cam will continue to rotate some. Some brands have draw stops on both cams and I can see it having some benefit.

    I know you have an idler on top and not a cam but could it act the same way? Maybe this be what you are feeling on your Pantera?
    I'm pretty sure bfisher discovered the problem in a previous post. It's related to the DL module and where the stop needs to be set for each one. I'll know for sure when the #7 module arrives. Interesting that the Firecat doesn't have dual stops and you can "draw through" the wall.

  7. #17
    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hunt123 View Post
    I'm pretty sure bfisher discovered the problem in a previous post. It's related to the DL module and where the stop needs to be set for each one. I'll know for sure when the #7 module arrives. Interesting that the Firecat doesn't have dual stops and you can "draw through" the wall.
    Not really. One stop works just fine. you gotta be one strong SOB to pull that top cam over once the bottom draw stop hits the limb. Besides, the stop is not necessary to stop the cam so much as an indicator of when the cam has hit full draw.

    For what it's worth the Cat/Nitro cams must be shot with a draw stop. It's possible to overdraw the cam to a point where the cable rolls off the back end of the module in which case the bow will lock up in the full draw position (scary). This has only happened a few times with somebody who doesn't know about it, and I would also suspect someone who is drawing so much weight they can't control the draw cycle of the bow or one that is too short for them and they don't know about the issue.

    I never shot the single cam without the draw stop but it might act the same way.
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  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by bfisher View Post
    You gotta be one strong SOB to pull that top cam over once the bottom draw stop hits the limb.
    15 years ago I might have fell into that catagory, not anymore. It doesn't take that much pull and you can see the upper cable moving some after the lower has stopped.
    Firecat 400

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