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Thread: first time timing tuner

  1. #1
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    Default first time timing tuner

    is this something i can check by myself with out a draw board? or press. My bow is loud but shoots really well. I will try to have my girl take pics of cams while at full draw if i have to. i cant post pics for now for you guys to inspect

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    A little trip down to your local home builder supply shop (Lowes/Homedepot) and for about $20, you can build a draw board. List: 1-2x6, 1-aluminum yardstick, 1-1x6" threaded pipe, 1-threaded 1" floor mount for pipe, and 1-ratchet locking pulley with rope. I got all this stuff from the local homedepot for right at $20. I cut the 2x6 down to about 6'. Part of the waste (6x6) chunk, I screwed down to the middle of the board so I could mount this in my bench vise. At one end, I drilled a 3/8" whole to put the dead end of the rope thru. I mounted the yardstick about 3" from the other end of the board, then screwed the floor mount threaded pipe fixture over the top of the yardstick so that the edge of the pipe where the bow grip will rest was at the 1-3/4" mark.

    Now you can take your time and really see what the cams are doing, or your rest, or cables or whatever are doing at any point in the draw, and can make a measurement of your DL and if you insert a bow scale in the mix you can get your exact pull at any point as well. I've got a few pics of my draw board in my albulm.
    -2011 Martin Silencer 63# 29.5", Limbsaver prism elite .029 sight, Alpine Whisperflite drop away rest, Alpine 5 arrow quiver, G5 1/4" Meta Peep, Carbon Express 8" stabilizer, Gold Tip Warrior and Expedition Hunter (385gr), G5 Montec
    -2011 Martin Silencer, 73# 29.5", Limbsaver prism elite .019 sight, QAD Ultra Rest Pro LD, Tight Spot 5 arrow quiver, 1/4" G5 Meta peep, Carbon Express 8" stabilizer, Gold Tip Expedition Hunter 7595 camo (441gr), G5 Montec BH.

  3. #3
    SonnyThomas
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    Default first time timing tuner

    Mudpig gave a good reply. Being perfectly lazy I have a rope attached to the ceiling joice of my garage and have a "S" hook on it. I hang the bow by the string at the arrow nock location. I draw the bow down slowly to watch the cams rotated to the draw stops and then make adjustments. To measure draw length, I also have steel tape measure that has a 1" loop on the end - it's made that way. I hang the loop on the "S" behind the bow string, but have the tape through the rest area. Here, you can measure to the Berger hole which is close to the deepest part of the grip or so close you can eye ball the difference. I do have a bow scale for checking draw weight, but a house hold step on weight scale can be employed. I notched a 3 foot steel rod, but a old broom handle would work. Notched at the nocking point push the bow down and read the scale.

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    thanks sunny and mudpig!
    after further reviewmy top cam IS just slightly faster than the bottom and according to nuts and bolts i must remove twist from one of the cable on the top cam.
    Which cable? the one on the top outside portion of the cam or the one on the inside nearer the axle?
    is an 1/8 of an inch make much difference? difference in cables touching flat spot that is. this is the cam that kept rattling screws loose yesterday
    next question: Is measuring draw weight that important? I have a 70 lb bow but usually only pull 60 or a couple pounds more. can pull more but arrow selection gets iffy at about 64 or 65 lbs and i like to stay below that for comfort and longevity.

    I know, I know lots of questions that take lengthy answers. I TRY to be a perfectionist sometimes mostly when i can help it

  5. #5
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    You want to twist the upper cable that attaches to the outter part of the cam, not the inner part by the hub. I full twist will probably do it for you, but you will need to recheck after making any changes.
    If you are not close to max draw weight and you are not making major twist changes to your cables, I don't think that you need to know the exact weight of draw. If you had your limbs maxed out and you were making drastic changes of cable length, then you would need to make sure that you were not exceeding the max rated poundage. General concensus seems to be that if you have a 60# bow maxed out and it's 60-63# actual draw weight that you are ok, but not to go any higher. Going higher than this will put stresses into the limbs that they were not designed to take and limb failure will result.
    -2011 Martin Silencer 63# 29.5", Limbsaver prism elite .029 sight, Alpine Whisperflite drop away rest, Alpine 5 arrow quiver, G5 1/4" Meta Peep, Carbon Express 8" stabilizer, Gold Tip Warrior and Expedition Hunter (385gr), G5 Montec
    -2011 Martin Silencer, 73# 29.5", Limbsaver prism elite .019 sight, QAD Ultra Rest Pro LD, Tight Spot 5 arrow quiver, 1/4" G5 Meta peep, Carbon Express 8" stabilizer, Gold Tip Expedition Hunter 7595 camo (441gr), G5 Montec BH.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudpig View Post
    You want to twist the upper cable that attaches to the outter part of the cam, not the inner part by the hub. I full twist will probably do it for you, but you will need to recheck after making any changes.
    If you are not close to max draw weight and you are not making major twist changes to your cables, I don't think that you need to know the exact weight of draw. If you had your limbs maxed out and you were making drastic changes of cable length, then you would need to make sure that you were not exceeding the max rated poundage. General concensus seems to be that if you have a 60# bow maxed out and it's 60-63# actual draw weight that you are ok, but not to go any higher. Going higher than this will put stresses into the limbs that they were not designed to take and limb failure will result.
    okay i tried 1 twist and then another, hasn't seemed to do anything do i need to shoot it to see what happens. does it need shooting for the twist to stretch out?
    Is okay i don't have a press and just leaned on it to make my cables come loose?

  7. #7
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    that sounds scary.... dont do that!!!
    2010 rytera x. apache rest, truglo 5pin. 8in shockbocker 1000 stabilizer. norway g2 string tamer Huch-n-Son strings
    2010 rytera z apache carbon rest axt primal x5 sight

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by justin View Post
    that sounds scary.... dont do that!!!
    any good way without a press then?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudpig View Post
    A little trip down to your local home builder supply shop (Lowes/Homedepot) and for about $20, you can build a draw board. List: 1-2x6, 1-aluminum yardstick, 1-1x6" threaded pipe, 1-threaded 1" floor mount for pipe, and 1-ratchet locking pulley with rope. I got all this stuff from the local homedepot for right at $20. I cut the 2x6 down to about 6'. Part of the waste (6x6) chunk, I screwed down to the middle of the board so I could mount this in my bench vise. At one end, I drilled a 3/8" whole to put the dead end of the rope thru. I mounted the yardstick about 3" from the other end of the board, then screwed the floor mount threaded pipe fixture over the top of the yardstick so that the edge of the pipe where the bow grip will rest was at the 1-3/4" mark.

    Now you can take your time and really see what the cams are doing, or your rest, or cables or whatever are doing at any point in the draw, and can make a measurement of your DL and if you insert a bow scale in the mix you can get your exact pull at any point as well. I've got a few pics of my draw board in my albulm.
    If you can find some of those pics can you post some for us? Thanks.
    Quote Originally Posted by justin View Post
    that sounds scary.... dont do that!!!
    PRICELESS

  10. #10
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    take a little time to learn your bow if you want to work on your own you can get a bow master portable bow press... how did you put two twists in the cable with out pressing the bow???

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