Okay guys, if you tune your bow should you tune it at the dw you plan to use. Or does it matter?
Last edited by Destroyer; 10-01-2011 at 10:59 PM.
I tune with everything the exact same way I am going to be using the bow. Same weight, DL, let-off, arrows, everything.
2006 Rytera Bullet X 60#---2008 Moab 70#
2008/12 Firecat 60#--- 2010 Warthog 70#
2009 Warthog 70#
2010 Strother SR-71 65# & 2012 Strother Rush 65#
2012 Strother SX Rush 60# & 2011 Strother Infinity 70#
I hunt, therefore I eat. lol
Well, lets think about this a sec.. It doesn't change the timing, doesn't change the physical placement of your centershot, or your knock placement. The cables keep your ata the same, so a few cranks of your limb bolts shouldn't matter a whole lot...
but then again, if you drop/raise the dw enough to require a different spine arrow, you may need to make some adjustments to your centershot to compensate...
I think it may be best to set your draw weight first. If it was me, anyways
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2011 Onza 3: 70#, 28.25 draw (AMO), 384 gr arrow, 288 fps
2005 Saber: 70#, same arrow, 250 fps
I tune it to the DW I'm going to shoot it, but in most cases that's only 1/2 a turn from max. I have found that after tuning, a full turn or so either way doesn't make any difference to arrow flight but may have to adjust sight pin a little if I'm shooting with sights.
Mmmmm? Well, if the arrow spine is compatible one can lower the draw weight quite a bit, 15 pounds, vary draw length maybe a inch and still have a well tuned bow - just adjust sights and continue shooting. If you note some of my posts I've shot arrows slightly under spined to way too stiff and all found the X. Look at the Carbon Express arrow chart and see the difference of a CXL 150, 250 and 350. Beman 340s is quite stiff for my bow and yet it's X time with them. Just yesterday or day before I show a picture of the left hand helical CXL 350 in the X. And another pic in here somewhere in here shows a CXL 150 in the X.
Basically, a well tuned bow will shoot a variety of arrows and remain quite accurate. Still, one should tune a bow for the arrow or have a arrow compatible with the draw weight.
Saturday afternoon. I set up a new 2008 Pearson Z34 for this man. I set it up just like normal with exception for his over and under caliper release (wide jaws, either side of the arrow thing). For the nocking point I used the top brass nock as the nocking point, 1/16" high, and the brass nock under the arrow was set to give about .040" up and down play. Okay, his caliper jaws clamped on the outside of the brass nocks. Not once did I consider his arrows. Some 400 somethings from Cabela's ($50 a dozen on sale) and there was one odd ball arrow. I did correct the arrows so that all were the same length (one maybe 1" longer than necessary and the rest 3" too long). Last thing to go on was his fixed pin sight. Where to set? Easy. Align the arrow with the string, move the sight so the pins are just on the outside of the string (ball parking it). The up and down I left to shoot in.
We went to the practice range, 10 yards. X with the first shot. Okay, I got lucky, real lucky. Two more stayed in the bull's eye. We backed up to 15 yards, still in the bull's eye. We backed up to 20, still in the bull's eye and one to two were dead Xs. Of 13 or 14 arrows only one went just a tad right, just out of the bull's eye. Made me feel good when the man said that what he just shot was the best group of arrows he ever shot.
Now, he wanted to try a little difference in draw weight. First, I had backed off the draw weight to 62 and then to 55 (which I shouldn't have), then 58 pounds and back up to 61 pounds and him with a 29" draw. There was no difference in accuracy....
Last edited by SonnyThomas; 05-15-2011 at 07:31 PM.
Ok with out the incidentals YUP IT DOSE MATTER , so do it right and do it once I always say use the arrow that hits the x , thats the one that matters