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Thread: stripping bow finish

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  1. #1
    Senior Member HawgEnvy's Avatar
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    Default stripping bow finish

    I just removed the coin from the Cheetah using the hair dryer. I put a metal pick under the edge of the coin and pryed lightly as I was heating and it popped right off. I used nail polish remover to soften the adhesive(which didn't work). I scraped the adhesive off w a flat screwdriver. The nail polish remover immediately bubbled the finish and took it down to bare aluminum. I think the easiest way to remove the finish will be to rub the riser down w acetone. It'll make it a quick job.

    NOTE: I will NOT be using acetone on the limbs and don't recommend anyone doing so. That could be costly.

    However, I need input on removing the finish from the limbs. I'm thinking an 800 grit sand paper followed up by 1200 grit to smooth it all out. Opinions/suggestions?

    I'm still debating on the final finish. An automotive paint with a flat clear would be plenty durable and look nice. There isn't anywhere close to me that does hydrographics. There are powdercoaters in the area that I will be contacting soon.

    I'm open to all thoughts,opinions,suggestions on the process and even the color scheme. I've got several ideas,but those are subject to change.
    '14 ChillR 28.5"/74# Extreme Recon sight,Schaffer Opposition rest,LS modular stab, Beman ICS Hunter 340

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    Super Moderator Arrow Splitter's Avatar
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    Here's a thread that I started a while back on the "Other" forum:http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showth...1326357&page=1
    I haven't refinished my bow yet though.
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  3. #3
    Senior Member HawgEnvy's Avatar
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    thanks for the link. Some good info there. Anyone else?
    '14 ChillR 28.5"/74# Extreme Recon sight,Schaffer Opposition rest,LS modular stab, Beman ICS Hunter 340

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    You may want to consider 3M abrasive pads/ Scotch Brite Pads for some stripping. Just google them for info. They conform to grooves, curves and edges easier. Also I was wondering about the Limb finish. You will need something that will handle the vibration and flex with out cracking the finish. I believe some finishes are rated w/ a solids content. The lower the solids the more flexible but w/ less shine. More solids, more brittle w/ higher shine/gloss. A good paint shop should be able to help.
    Chasman, 2010 Martin Bengal 60#,Parker Phoenix 60#, Parker Hornet 70#. Hutch-n-Son strings.'Makes a lot of sense if you don't think about it!

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    Senior Member gravedigger's Avatar
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    so the nail polish remover did not eat the glue,man i thought for sure it would work.and a big suprise it ate the finish.sorry i led ya in the wrong direction.maybe i will test things on my bow befor i bring on my big ideas.lol.i dont know what to do about the limbs,they are scary to work with

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    Senior Member HawgEnvy's Avatar
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    yup. Polish remover ate the finish. Which is fine. No problem there. It just saved me from having to buy paint stripper. The glue isn't really a glue. It's more like it was a drop of melted rubber that the coin was pressed into. The VEM's pushed through the riser w/o issue and will easily pop back in. The grip was a major PIA to get off. That alone took 45min. I don't know how people are having problems w theirs sliding. It's mind boggling how well it was on there.

    the limbs I just sanded for about 45min ea. Under the camo it looks like a urethane primer. I left that instead of taking it down to bare glass.

    so far it's coming along smoothly. It took longer to get the grip off than it did to completely strip the rest of the bow. I'm taking pics as I go(Hutch)and will get them up when I'm finished. So stay tuned.

    Hutch,ill be hittin you up for a string soon.
    '14 ChillR 28.5"/74# Extreme Recon sight,Schaffer Opposition rest,LS modular stab, Beman ICS Hunter 340

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    Quote Originally Posted by HawgEnvy View Post
    I just removed the coin from the Cheetah using the hair dryer. I put a metal pick under the edge of the coin and pryed lightly as I was heating and it popped right off. I used nail polish remover to soften the adhesive(which didn't work). I scraped the adhesive off w a flat screwdriver. The nail polish remover immediately bubbled the finish and took it down to bare aluminum. I think the easiest way to remove the finish will be to rub the riser down w acetone. It'll make it a quick job.

    NOTE: I will NOT be using acetone on the limbs and don't recommend anyone doing so. That could be costly.

    However, I need input on removing the finish from the limbs. I'm thinking an 800 grit sand paper followed up by 1200 grit to smooth it all out. Opinions/suggestions?

    I'm still debating on the final finish. An automotive paint with a flat clear would be plenty durable and look nice. There isn't anywhere close to me that does hydrographics. There are powdercoaters in the area that I will be contacting soon.

    I'm open to all thoughts,opinions,suggestions on the process and even the color scheme. I've got several ideas,but those are subject to change.



    They also sell the spray on paint removers. They work pretty good, you can watch the paint lift from the riser. One that i hear is really good is the Klean Strip Air Craft paint remover. Here is a link stating what it is an how its used if your interested. http://www.wmbarr.com/product.aspx?catid=72&prodid=135

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    String builder/ Super Moderator Hutch~n~Son Archery's Avatar
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    HawgEnvy, are you going to paint this riser by hand or have someone spray it. Let me know. I painted cars for 28 years. I could give your some pointers, if you need any.

    Hutch
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    Senior Member gravedigger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hutch~n~Son Archery View Post
    HawgEnvy, are you going to paint this riser by hand or have someone spray it. Let me know. I painted cars for 28 years. I could give your some pointers, if you need any.

    Hutch
    come on down to oregon and paint my big white runner for me will ya.oh and can you do body work too,its seen and shakin hands with a few trees.

  10. #10
    Senior Member HawgEnvy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hutch~n~Son Archery View Post
    HawgEnvy, are you going to paint this riser by hand or have someone spray it. Let me know. I painted cars for 28 years. I could give your some pointers, if you need any.

    Hutch
    I'm planning on spraying it myself using my limited auto paint knowledge from when I was building my 4x4s.

    I'm working on the riser now. About 5 post up I described my process. I'm always up for tips on how to do things better.

    another thing I'll be doing,also. I was digging in my parts box and found a stainless steel stabilizer bushing. I'll be putting the riser in a drill press and drilling out the existing hole to the 7/16" diameter needed for the SS bushing.
    '14 ChillR 28.5"/74# Extreme Recon sight,Schaffer Opposition rest,LS modular stab, Beman ICS Hunter 340

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