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Thread: stripping bow finish

  1. #11
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    Powdercoat for the riser would be nice, tough.

  2. #12
    Senior Member HawgEnvy's Avatar
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    that it would be. I'm going to make some calls today for pricing. Any ideas as to cost? Fair price?
    '14 ChillR 28.5"/74# Extreme Recon sight,Schaffer Opposition rest,LS modular stab, Beman ICS Hunter 340

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by HawgEnvy View Post
    that it would be. I'm going to make some calls today for pricing. Any ideas as to cost? Fair price?
    Not 100% positive, but I think spiker on here does powder coat work.

    Advantage Custom Strings

  4. #14
    Super Moderator Arrow Splitter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by archerx7 View Post
    Not 100% positive, but I think spiker on here does powder coat work.
    Yes he does.

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  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by HawgEnvy View Post
    I had to leave the limb pockets on. The freakin bolts won't budge. I tried a little heat but didn't want to risk damage.
    You aren't going to damage it with a propane torch. The thing most people do wrong with heating aluminum is not getting it hot enough. Aluminum is a great heat conductor and the heat is sucked into the area and travels away quickly. You really need to keep after it to get it to the same temp a piece of steel would get. Get after it again and you will get the results you want. That aluminum riser will expand more than the steel bolt and you will succeed. Provided you get it hot enough in that area!

    *Edit*

    Another thing that helps with heating aluminum. Set the riser out in the sun so it soaks up some heat or throw it in an oven at say 300* F. until it is heat soaked. Then immediately heat the area of the bolt up really good and you should have success. The reason for heat soaking the riser first is so the areas away from the limb bolts aren't stealing the heat way from the area where it's needed. That is what happens and causes people to give up too quickly with aluminum. The thicker or larger the part the longer it will take to heat it up.
    Last edited by MLN1963; 05-18-2011 at 09:53 AM.
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  6. #16
    Senior Member HawgEnvy's Avatar
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    thanks for the info. I shouldve checked responses before laying the primer. It's looking really good though. I laid a couple more thin coats on each limb this morning. Let dry,then hit them with 1200 grit, washed and rinsed,let dry,hit them both again with a light coat,let dry,then wet sanded with 2000 grit.

    the riser is going to get the same treatment. I called for pricing and I can get it p-coated for less than $20 but it's nearly an hours drive each way to drop off and pick up(4hrs driving time). So,for me,a good paint job is the most cost effective and quickest solution. Whatever cash I save on refinishing the bow,i can use for a new string and sights.
    '14 ChillR 28.5"/74# Extreme Recon sight,Schaffer Opposition rest,LS modular stab, Beman ICS Hunter 340

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by HawgEnvy View Post
    I just removed the coin from the Cheetah using the hair dryer. I put a metal pick under the edge of the coin and pryed lightly as I was heating and it popped right off. I used nail polish remover to soften the adhesive(which didn't work). I scraped the adhesive off w a flat screwdriver. The nail polish remover immediately bubbled the finish and took it down to bare aluminum. I think the easiest way to remove the finish will be to rub the riser down w acetone. It'll make it a quick job.

    NOTE: I will NOT be using acetone on the limbs and don't recommend anyone doing so. That could be costly.

    However, I need input on removing the finish from the limbs. I'm thinking an 800 grit sand paper followed up by 1200 grit to smooth it all out. Opinions/suggestions?

    I'm still debating on the final finish. An automotive paint with a flat clear would be plenty durable and look nice. There isn't anywhere close to me that does hydrographics. There are powdercoaters in the area that I will be contacting soon.

    I'm open to all thoughts,opinions,suggestions on the process and even the color scheme. I've got several ideas,but those are subject to change.



    They also sell the spray on paint removers. They work pretty good, you can watch the paint lift from the riser. One that i hear is really good is the Klean Strip Air Craft paint remover. Here is a link stating what it is an how its used if your interested. http://www.wmbarr.com/product.aspx?catid=72&prodid=135

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  8. #18
    String builder/ Super Moderator Hutch~n~Son Archery's Avatar
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    HawgEnvy, are you going to paint this riser by hand or have someone spray it. Let me know. I painted cars for 28 years. I could give your some pointers, if you need any.

    Hutch
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  9. #19
    Senior Member gravedigger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hutch~n~Son Archery View Post
    HawgEnvy, are you going to paint this riser by hand or have someone spray it. Let me know. I painted cars for 28 years. I could give your some pointers, if you need any.

    Hutch
    come on down to oregon and paint my big white runner for me will ya.oh and can you do body work too,its seen and shakin hands with a few trees.

  10. #20
    Senior Member HawgEnvy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hutch~n~Son Archery View Post
    HawgEnvy, are you going to paint this riser by hand or have someone spray it. Let me know. I painted cars for 28 years. I could give your some pointers, if you need any.

    Hutch
    I'm planning on spraying it myself using my limited auto paint knowledge from when I was building my 4x4s.

    I'm working on the riser now. About 5 post up I described my process. I'm always up for tips on how to do things better.

    another thing I'll be doing,also. I was digging in my parts box and found a stainless steel stabilizer bushing. I'll be putting the riser in a drill press and drilling out the existing hole to the 7/16" diameter needed for the SS bushing.
    '14 ChillR 28.5"/74# Extreme Recon sight,Schaffer Opposition rest,LS modular stab, Beman ICS Hunter 340

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